India with Kids (Part 2)

Agra
Miss part 1 of our trip to India? Catch up here.
After two nights in Ranthambhore we headed to Agra, stopping at Fatehpur Sikri on the way. Fatehpur was intended to be the capital city of the Mughal Empire, but was abandoned after 14 years due to lack of available water. It's quite well preserved and isn't crowded, a nice place to break up the drive. Our guide did mention sticking to the single site and not exploring the ruins around town.

After that it was on to the hotel, with the Taj up early the next day. Unfortunately, our drive was stopped by protesting, and the situation was quite alarming and hairy. Let's just say it will be a long time before I'd like to drive on that road again. 10 people lost their lives in the uprising and quite a bit of damage was done to vehicles and property. I found it interesting that the caste system was still a large part of Indian culture (this protest was the Dalits, the lowest caste, protesting the loss of their job and educational quotas, think affirmative action) and that some regarded it in a positive light. It was mentioned that with the true caste system, everyone was guaranteed a job (whether menial labor or army service or whatever) and now many are unemployed. As an American, this inability to achieve the dream or reach higher is so contradictory to what we feel is right, so it was fascinating to hear other perspectives. Thankfully the children were focused on their iPads and missed seeing all that was occurring out the window. We made it safely to the hotel several hours late, ordered room service and called it a night!

The Taj Mahal and Agra Fort were on the agenda for day 4, and man, the Taj Mahal really does live up to the hype. It is pristine and stunning. Emperor Shah Jahan built the Taj Mahal to honor his favorite wife after she died during the birth of their 14th child. He had taken her with him to the jungle for a battle, and things didn't go as planned. She was actually buried there, but soil was taken from the burial site to put in her Taj tomb once is what completed 19 years later. The Emperor is also buried there, although his tomb was not planned, so is not symmetrical, after being imprisoned in Agra Fort at the end of his life.

I highly recommend going as early as possible in the morning before the day trippers arrive from the larger cities. Don't be afraid to push your way in for pictures. Having a guide will help with this process also, as you won't feel the need to pay a photographer or trust a random person with your camera. The site is closed on Friday, and you'll need to remove your shoes to go into the building itself (although, honestly, the interior is very meh, and you can skip that if you are short on time).

Agra Fort was a nice visit (make sure you driver has plenty of cold water in the vehicle, you'll want it). You can see the different styles of architecture as well as the place where the Emperor spent his last days, looking down the river at the Taj.

Like in Thailand, our kids were quite the attraction. They took pictures with so many people- kids and adults! I wonder where the pictures will end up. Social Media? Or are they framable for people's houses? It was hysterical.

Jaipur
Our final 3 nights were spent in Jaipur (thankfully with an uneventful drive to the city!). The hotel we stayed at here was INCREDIBLE and I'd highly recommend the JW Marriott Jaipur Resort and Spa to anyone.

First up was the Amber Fort. We opted to not do the elephant ride as they don't appear to be treated well, so our driver took us up and then our guide helped us navigate through the sellers and inside. (Our Jaipur guide was Mr. Singh, and he was fantastic. I have his contact information if anyone is looking.) See the small window in the center? The queen would wait there for her husband to arrive, veiled by the screens, and throw down rose petals to welcome him. She would be wheeled up there in a special pull cart due to the weight of her jewels and gown.

The City Palace houses a lovely museum where you can see artifacts (including clothing from a VERY LARGE emperor) and portraits detailing the history of the dynasty. The royal family still has an extensive residence there to this day. Although they have no official political power, they do have wealth and status.

After lunch we went to the Water Palace for a photo stop, but going inside is not possible. It was built as a picnic location for the royal family. We had one more place on our list but decided to skip it as the kids seem maxed out on touring. That's the great benefit of having your own driver and guide- flexibility!

Our final stop (the next day) was Dera Amer elephant reserve. My husband skipped this trip as he wasn't feeling well, but it was very manageable by myself. Dera Amer has two retired elephants that now live in a beautiful location with plenty of space. The children were able to paint the elephant, which helped them seem less intimidating, and then give them a good scrub. They also fed them bananas and gave them some sweet pets. There are also two camels, with "Neck" being the friendlier of the two. He's happy to give rides (camels are better suited for this than elephants) and eat snacks. The kids like him even more than the elephants. Lunch is served buffet style on the property and is delicious. The staff was great and very animal conscious, which can be hard to find.

Overall, it was a great trip. I'd highly recommend it to anyone that's interested in seeing some place new. India is affordable and interesting. Accurately described as an "assault on the senses" it can be loud (so any horns) and colorful and full of interesting smells- but to me that's all part of the appeal. While most people head to Europe for easy travel with young kids, I truly feel like Asia is much more accommodating and welcoming to families. The people of India were kind and lovely, and we feel lucky to have been able to visit.

India with Kids (Part 1)

Spring Break tends to be a time of exciting travel for our family. Tuscany, Egypt, Israel, Germany...it's a great time to get away, take a break, and explore new places. This year we decided to up the adventure and head to INDIA! Depending on what type of traveler you are this either sounds like a fantastic or terrible idea. (My husband and I were one of each.)

The biggest advice I have for India with kids is to make it as easy on yourself as possible. This is not the trip to do public transportation and hostels with children. It is easy and affordable to hire drivers and guides before arriving and to find excellent hotels. Well trained guides and smart hotels can help you choose ways to support the community that are helpful, rather than harmful.

Before you go, be sure to prepare for potential health issues. Bring medications (visit a travel doc for immunizations and suggestions) like anti-diahrreals and anti-histamines. Also pack snacks (street food is a no), rehydrating powder, nausea bands, etc. Having these on hand will make it much easier should anyone not feel well. That said- only one of us had any tummy trouble at all and the hotel was quite helpful in adding herbal teas and smart foods to our medication regimen.

Our revised golden triangle itinerary was split into three area: Ranthambhore, Agra, and Jaipur. We had a single driver throughout (Note: tourist vehicles can only go 80kmh, so driving between areas takes longer than you might think.), but different guides for each city. We flew into and out of Jaipur, bypassing New Delhi on the recommendation of friends from India. I think this was key to our enjoyment because we avoided much of the congestion! We also went at the beginning of the off-peak season (April), and while it was warm, it was no warmer than Oman, and the crowds were significantly less. Bring in car entertainment and charging cords for the car rides. Long days of driving are made better with videos and audiobooks.

Ranthambhore National Park
Just after landing we began our drive to Ranthambhore National Park. Our mission? See tigers! There are about 65 tigers in this park and 10 routes for safaris to be assigned to, so seeing a tiger is far from guaranteed. To increase our chances, we signed up for both an early morning and an evening safari. The ride is BUMPY, so I'd think twice with young children and/or pregnant women (and I'd recommend sitting near the front). I still have bruises! Our youngest is 4, and she's about the youngest I'd want on this portion of the trip, as for much of the safari you are looking and quietly waiting- not an easy feat for toddlers.

The park itself was amazing! Beautiful scenery and so many animals. We saw TWO tigers (they live alone, so this was awesome!), many species of birds, two species of antelope, monkeys, crocodiles, chipmunks, and more. For my husband and son, this was the highlight of the trip!

The guide and driver are always keeping an eye out for tiger signs as you drive, as this is the biggest reason most come on the safari. They listen for the danger call of the deer and look for fresh tiger tracks. They also stop frequently to share information with each other as to what they have heard/seen.

This one particular species of bird, the Treepie, would always come near the vehicle when we stopped. I couldn't believe how curious it was. They say it's closely related to the magpie, which is one of the most intelligent birds.

The park was designated as a sanctuary is 1955, although hunting by the royal family continued there until much later. Thankfully the animal population has increased in recent years, and it remains the best place to see these animals int he wild when visiting the golden triangle area.

Keep following along on our trip! See part 2 by clicking here.

Pro Packing

Looking for packing hacks? Let me share some of my top packing tips and travel products with you! PS, if you are looking for tips on how to pack everything for 98 weeks of travel in one bag, this is not the post for you. Gone are the days of washing a shirt in the hotel sink.

Alternate title: Packing like a pro who has children and needs stuff. 
Alternate title: Like Oprah's favorite things but I only give you links. 

Packing Cubes- These are key to both organization and optimizing the room you have in bags. I roll our clothing (the kid's clothes get rolled as outfits) and pack tightly. For speciality things like swimsuits, pajamas, undergarments, I prefer to have those grouped in smaller packing cubes. The cubes can go directly into drawers for hotels you'll be visiting more than a night or two. When you buy sheets sets or other bedding, save the zipper bags they come in to use for this purpose, too!

Hanging Organizer- The key to these is keeping them packed. I have travel versions of all products for myself and the kids (they have their own bag) that stay packed. No more forgetting toothbrushes! For your liquids, saran wrap the top of the bottle before screwing on the lid and place them inside a ziploc bag before putting them in the organizer. Less mess!

Luggage Scale- This is a no brainer for airlines with tight baggage restrictions (or people that like to pack extra *cough*like me*cough*). Easy to pack and store and you can weigh your things as you pack (and while packing to go back home) so there are no surprises at the airport.

Travel Wall Charger- I choose an all in one charger that has changeable plug styles and multiple USB ports. I can use it everywhere to charge everything.

Anti-theft Crossbody- This bag has been a lifesaver on trips! You'll want a bag that is comfortable, doesn't stand out, keeps your things safe, and still holds all you need. We learned early on that a backpack is too touristy and too easy for pickpockets to access. Picking one with safety features (like straps that can't be cut and locking zippers) is reassuring.

Other helpful tips- 
*Grab the hotel shower caps to place over your shoes. Don't want the bottom of your shoes touching your things. Yuck!

*Pack your own outfits with a single color family in mind. It's much easier if all your outfits coordinate with a single color shoe and a single color jewelry. I typically go for black/gray.

*Traveling with kids? Bring food. While there is usually something on the menu for kids, there isn't always and sometimes you'll just want to push the days button and hand them some freeze dried fruit. Plus, snacks keep them happy, so why worry about being able to find something on a long drive? Bonus- you'll have extra room in your bag after eating them to bring home souvenirs.

*If you are in the USA, check TJ Maxx/Marshalls and Burlington Coat Factory for great deals on luggage. I prefer Samsonite luggage and can usually find a piece or two on clearance. (360 degree wheels are a must, but look for the ones that are fully under the case, they are less likely to be broken.)

Also check out my post on FLYING WITH KIDS for my favorite items for airline travel.

What are your favorite packing hacks? How do you pack for a trip?

*This post contains affiliate links to products I love, but was not sponsored or endorsed by any brand.

Dubai with Kids

Heading to Dubai? Today I'm looking back at our recent trip to the city with young kids. Keep reading for my top tips on visiting Dubai with children and Dubai on a budget.

Driving to Dubai from Muscat? Check out this blog for a great detailed rundown on how it's done. A note- Maps.me has a very different idea of "straight" and "slight," so keep an eye on the map itself once in the city.

Dubai Mall was a big attraction for us as much of the other area things are easy to access in Oman (mosques, souk, desert camping). It is HUGE! We walked 8 miles just inside the mall and still didn't see it all. Ice skating, a dinosaur skeleton, an aquarium, and more. Check Groupon for available deals for attractions like Kidzania. The earlier you can get to the mall, the more enjoyable it will be. Evening crowds are intense! There are more food options than you could imagine. Expats will enjoy easy access to Texas Roadhouse, PF Changs, and more.

Dubai Fountain is located just outside Dubai Mall and has a wonderful water show every half hour each evening (and afternoons on Friday). You can grab a table at one of the nearby restaurants or watch from the platform at the Apple store. The closer you are to the Burj, the less crowded it will be. Stay for two shows, as the music alternates between Arabic and Western. Well worth your time!

The Burj Khalifa can be viewed from outside by the fountain or you can enter it by purchasing a ticket in the mall (cheaper to book online ahead of time, but still $$$). We opted to view it from outside and it's big. Easy to spot from anywhere in the city!

The Entertainer app can save you some money in Dubai, even if you have another country's version. We used our Oman version to take advantage of a BOGO hotel offer for a Roda property directly across from the mall.

Cabs/Uber/Metro are all possible ways to explore the city. We opted to park at the hotel and mostly walk, utilizing cabs when necessary. For us, the metro wasn't convenient to our sites, so be sure to check the map and see how far the stop is from your destination. The beach stop would have had us walking about an hour to get down to the beach!

The RTA offers two popular tourist routes for their Dubai Ferry, which makes for a nice economical boat ride from Jumeriah Beach. For a family of 4, the ticket is 150AED for silver class and 210AED for gold. The ticket office is just outside the Carrefour, and near a shaded playground that is perfect to burn off some energy while you wait for your boat. Our boat started running at 3pm and gave a 1 hour ride out to Atlantis and back.

Playground near Dubai Ferry ticket kiosk.

Pro tip: Bring food and snacks to save some cash. Dubai is an expensive city. If you can eat breakfast in your room (most hotels will provide bottled water), you'll save quite a bit of money!

We opted to spend our final night at Atlantis the Palm with some Christmas money. If you can swing it, I highly recommend it! It was a nice end to a busy weekend. Staying at Atlantis gives you access to the pools, water park, and aquarium for a little more than you'd pay for a day pass alone. Next time, we would/will stay for two days to give us more time to do all the activities.

Looking to save some money on Atlantis? Atlantis deals do exist! The best deal we found was via Emirates frequent flyer program. Sign up and take your card with you (Some places will accept your number as a digital card, but not all.) to take full advantage. Booking through this program saved us about 50% on our room alone. Once there, the deal allowed for kids to eat free with the purchase of an adult meal. Big savings!

No crowds at opening! By lunch every chair was full!

Get to Aquaventure early! Be at the kiosk to get your wristband at 9:40 (golf carts can drive you there from the pool). Hop on the first cart you can get to head to the water park at 9:45 opening. You'll want to grab your towels for the day and secure chairs right away. If you plan to ride the tower slides, do that first before lines form. Smaller kids won't be able to ride the tower slides, but there is a large children's area with plenty to do, pools, a playground, plenty of beach, and more!

The aquarium is fun to visit and doesn't take too long. Visit after breakfast or dinner when you are water park-ed out. There are helpful screens in each section to tell you about what's inside.

Atlantis offers a Kid's Club, with an afternoon session (2-5) included for each night of the stay in Deluxe (regular) rooms. It's a great time for mom and dad to hang at the pool, enjoy the big slides at the water park, or even take a nap!

Pro tip: Check in as early as possible. If they don't have a room available, they will hold your bags and you can use the facilities. On check out day we took our things down before heading to the park and they held them until 2pm when we were ready to leave. Utilizing the baggage hold really helps you make the most of your time.

When a Trip Goes VERY Wrong

Warning: Pictures of an injury are included in this post.

You know those trips where everything goes well? They are lovely. Sometimes though, you get a trip like this...

Between our last two locations we decided to take trip to my hometown and avoid some of the worst of Oman summer heat. I loaded up myself and the kids and flew to Texas after wrapping up all the things in DC. That was on June 5th. In the early morning of June 7th (our second night there) I was awoken by my youngest screaming in another room. I ran to her, picked her up, and was rocking back and forth. Next thing I know I'm on the floor and my Mom is yelling for my Dad.

I felt a lot of pain on the left side of my head, but didn't understand how I got to the floor. My Dad rushed in and let me know that I had fainted and cut my ear and we needed to go to the hospital. Thankfully my mom had also been awoken by my little one and had caught her when I fell. My Dad grabbed a ziploc bag of ice and we were on our way.

During the ride I kept telling him how much my ear hurt and he shared that a piece had come off and that's what he had placed on ice. I think I was in such shock that I just agreed and went along with it. I didn't ask questions or even look at my ear, assuming I had just knocked it. The triage nurse escorted us in and asked what happened. I explained the story and she didn't seem phased so I didn't stress. Then she opened that bag and said "Holy crap! That's a big piece!" Uh oh. Things are more serious than I thought. Not cool, nurse. I still didn't look.

The doctor came quickly and the nurse kindly hooked me up with pain medicine. I felt bad doing it, but I asked for a little more. He obliged very quickly. Maybe things are really bad. I know they don't just give that stuff out. They ran all sorts of scans and tests for the fainting, all was fine. Now what to do with my ear injury?

Readers, I had fainted (never before, never since) and hit my head on the kitchen counter, cutting off half of my ear. On the freaking kitchen counter. Half my ear.

Yeah. That's not a good start to a trip.

They couldn't handle such a large injury at the small hospital so I was to be sent via ambulance to downtown Houston to see a plastic surgeon. He said they would reattach my ear, but as they were loading me in the ambulance he said they actually probably wouldn't be able to and, for the first time, I cried. This was really really serious.

The medic in the ambulance was kind and helped me to take a photo so I could finally see what I was dealing with. More tears. I CUT MY EAR OFF ON A COUNTERTOP. How does that even happen?! He assured me that he had seen new ears grown on the backs of rats and I shouldn't worry. So reassuring.

The big hospital nurses greeted me with lots of questions. They had been taking bets. Bar fight? Dog bite? Was I pregnant? Nope. I cut my ear off on a countertop while holding my kid, obvs. So then they brought all their friends around for me to show and tell. Must have been a slow night. Did I mention that my husband was on another continent? Because of course!

Is this really happening?

Once the plastic surgeon arrived (I LOVE her, and truly can't say enough about her excellent care.) things got even weirder. She wouldn't be able to reattach the ear, so she was going to put the piece IN MY ARM (In. my. arm.), and let it heal before trying to attach it in a few weeks. I was awake with local anesthetic while she stitched up my ear and added the piece to my arm. Talk about weird. So, I go home with an ear inside my arm and a giant bandage on my head. The pharmacist at CVS moved real quick like when I rolled in asking for meds.

The arm-ear.

So fashionable. Hurry up with my meds.

A few weeks later it was determined that they wouldn't actually be able to use the ear piece because it was so large and cartilage blood supply is small. Could this get any weirder? Yes, yes it could. She's going to cut out a piece of my rib and make me a new ear. Then she will take blood supply from my head and skin from my scalp and cover it up. And in a years time or so when it all heals? I get to have laser hair removal on my ear because it's hairy scalp skin.

It's sharper than it looks.

All because I fainted and cut my ear off on a countertop.

So the short trip turned into an all summer one. A summer where I couldn't be in the sun, or water, or pick up my kids, or wear sunglasses. Because have you tried wearing sunglasses with one ear? Super fun. The 9 hour surgery was a success, and I'm on the road to recovery, but I still can't believe it. How does this even happen?! If you see me out and notice my arm scar, now you'll know where it's from. I'm thankful for the doctors, family, and friends who pitched in to get me through a rough summer with my husband on another continent. I'm thankful for my friends who are still checking up on me. I'll have another trip to Texas and a surgery this coming summer to help shape the rib ear. I'm practically the bionic woman.

The new ear right after surgery.

What's the craziest thing you've had happen on vacation?

Traveling with Kids is Easy

My family travel photo feed reads like a fairy tale. I jet off with my kids to new and exciting countries, or spend bliss filled hours exploring our own. Right? Friends, that’s a big hearty NO. Traveling with kids isn’t always a dream come true.

Yes, this is actually my child.

To the mom flying solo with two kids under 2, I’ve been there. I’ve lugged those stupid giant car seats down the aisle with both kids strapped to me because the experts say it’s best. I’ve reached my seat soaked in sweat while not a single hand offered to help. 

To the dad venturing to a new country determined to show your kids the world, only to end up in a small pizza restaurant with a screaming toddler who couldn’t care less about the ancient walled city and staring patrons- I’m with you.

To the mom trying to nurse on a plane with a cover and a nipple shield and a toddler that just dropped all two hundred forty million of their crayons, I’m cheering for you.

To the exhausted parent showing family around your temporary home when all your sweet toddler wants to do is run like a rabid goat in the roadside restaurant. I see you. 

I see your dirty diaper changes in an airplane bathroom. I see your one extra glass of wine because you made it through that dang road trip. I feel you. I am you.

Despite all that, here’s what I know for sure, it’s worth it. We are showing our kids the world. Showing them people and places that don’t look like them or their home. Showing them that there is beauty everywhere. Teaching them history and culture through real world experience. Showing them that we don’t need a common language to make friends. You, parent traveling with littles, are doing a GREAT job. Travel on. 

Cheers, friends.

2 Weeks in Oman (Oman with Kids)

While many only visit Muscat/Oman for a day, if you have more time for holiday (or plan to move to Oman), here's my top sights to see in two weeks. Check out 1 Day in Muscat sites plus...

Royal Opera House- A stunning building near the beach, this is a popular stop for visitors. You can view the outside and have brunch, or even choose to take tour or see a show. Guided tours are offered 8:30-5:30 Sunday-Thursday.

Snorkeling at Daymaniyat Islands- The boat ride out takes only about 40 minutes, and the snorkeling is lovely. Daymaniyat Shells will take you to several snorkeling spots (weather and season dependent) with beautiful coral reefs and abundant wildlife. This particular tour company is environmentally conscious and perfect for families and sustainable travelers alike. Since the tour leaves around 8:30am and gets back at 2pm, this can be a great last day option for those with a late afternoon/evening flight. Check out of your hotel and store your bags with them (or in your rental), and shower at the airport lounge before your flight.

Bimmah Sinkhole- A short drive down the coast from Muscat you'll find this natural pool. Stairs make it easy to access and the tiny fish will leave your feet feeling as soft as if you paid for a pedicure. Entrance is free and picnic spots are plentiful.

Wadi Shab- Combo this with a short stop at the sinkhole as it's a few minutes further down the road. A wadi is a valley, and this one is the most popular in the area. It's about an hour of hiking and swimming in and an hour out. The path is clearly marked. Entrance is free, but you'll want to pay a tender to take you across the (purposefully) flooded area near the parking lot (1 Rial/pp). I suggest wearing clothing that you can hike and swim in (I choose a rash guard and quick dry type bermuda shorts.). Leave towels in the car. A camelback and snacks are helpful. My parents (in their 60s) did the hike, but we have not yet taken our children (4 and 5), although many do.

Desert Camping- There are a number of Wahiba Sands camping options that allow you to glamp in the Arabian Desert with relative ease. 1000 Nights and Desert Nights are popular among our friends. You'll need a 4x4 to drive yourself or you can book a ride through the camp. DO NOT HIRE the men at the gas station to lead you out. Use the map provided by the camp. Deflate your tires at the gas station prior to heading off road. One night is plenty.

Al Hoota Cave- Just outside of Nizwa this cave is a fun stop with kids. They will enjoy seeing the cave fish and bats. There is a train, but I've never heard of anyone actually riding it, so be prepared for a short walk to the cave entrance. There is a small playground near the parking lot that is nice after a drive from the city.

Nizwa Souq and Fort- This souq experience is much less touristy and much more laid back than the one in Muscat. Prices are lower and the dates are yummy! The fort is a self guided walk and offers great views of the city. The fort also has cannons, room set ups, and good ascriptive signs. Our kids really enjoyed it.

Jebel Akhdar- The "green mountain" offers a scenic getaway from the busy city. Hiking is lovely, and if visting in the warmer months, this can give you a place to cool off!

Bahla Fort- A UNESCO sight, this fort is the oldest (and biggest) you'll find. It's not far from Nizwa, but you'll want to spend a few hours at this fort, so it might be a bit much to combine with Nizwa in a single day.

Ras Al Jinz- This turtle reserve has both morning and evening outings to view the turtle hatchlings making their way to the water or the mothers making their way to the beach. Many choose a Muscat-Nizwa-Wahiba Sands-Ras Al Jinz-Sinkhole/Wadi-Muscat routing. One night at the reserve is sufficient.

Salalah- If you have extra time (or are an expat living in country), you must check out Salalah during khareef. Everything is lush and green and the weather is a fantastic break from the overwhelming Muscat heat. If you want to buy Frankincense, do it here.

Oman Tripper has detailed info on many of these sites and more. The Lonely Planet Guide will have info on accommodations and great historical info on the region.